Gemstone Rings
Typical shapes for gemstones include round, oval, pear, square, marquise, and even heart shapes. Cabochon cut stones usually have very simple shapes, while faceted stones are often cut into more elaborate shapes.
The shape of the gemstone should be chosen to enhance the proportions of the wearer’s hand. Someone with short fingers might choose a marquise or oval shaped gemstone because of their length. The width of the band is important, too. Elongated gemstone shapes look good on a wider band. If there is more than one gemstone in the ring, the shape of the central stone will determine the shapes chosen for the other gemstones.
The way the gemstone is set is also an important element in gemstone rings. The setting of the stone should both enhance the beauty of the stone and hold it securely. Popular settings include Tiffany, cathedral, and tension.
Tiffany settings are familiar to anyone who has ever looked at diamond rings. This beautiful setting was designed by Tiffany & Co. in 1886. It was quite an innovation at the time, and it quickly became the company’s signature style. In a Tiffany setting, the stone is elevated above the simple metal band and held in place by four or six symmetrically placed prongs. It’s a particularly good choice for transparent stones, because it allows maximum light into the stone. The prongs should be thick enough to make the stone secure, but thin enough to avoid overshadowing the stone’s beauty. The gemstone should sit level between the prongs. The prongs should be smooth and rounded.
Cathedral settings also elevate the gemstone above the band. The band either splits or thickens to elevate the stone, forming a shape like a cathedral window just below the gemstone.
Tension settings have a sleek, contemporary air. This setting was created in the 1960s. It gives the dramatic appearance of a gemstone floating in air between two sections of the band. Actually, the band is acting like two large prongs, with small carved grooves fitting securely around the stone’s girdle. Because a lot of tension is inherent in a tension setting, only the hardest gemstones can be used, and they cannot have flaws that might crack under the pressure. The metal must also be very strong.




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